Styles by Claudia Blog

Archive for June, 2009

We see it when we’re angry, bulls are drawn to it, Hell’s doctrine describes its glow and Darth Vader’s lightsaber reflects its uniqueness.

What other single word carries so much description?
From Love and passion to rage and destruction; the word itself conjures up extremes of human emotions from one end of the spectrum to the other. And oh how we love it. We want it on the fastest cars, the most beautiful rose and if we ladies really want to make an impression we can’t go wrong wearing it! Even the perception of it, enhances the viewer’s metabolism and increases heart rate and respiration. Love, Hate and Passion wrapped in a three letter word…RED.
For all of those out there in virtual webland here are all the cool facts, findings and fun things I’ve collected over time about our desirable color red and its relation to hair.

Hope you enjoy it.

Facts –
The gene that causes red hair is called MC1R (melanocortin 1 receptor) and was discovered in 1995.

The Red hair is seen on only four percent of people worldwide. Most exist in the U.K., Ireland, and Australia.

The red hair gene originally arose in Northern Europe, because having fair skin was an advantage. How? Because it lets more sunlight through than dark skin. When sunlight enters your skin, it stimulates the production of vitamin D, and that protects you from getting diseases like rickets.

It’s believed that redheads are prone to industrial deafness. (This may be true as the melanocytes (color cells) are found in the middle ear.)

Redheads have the smallest number of hair strands… Red hair is usually thicker and coarser than blond hair so it appears fuller.

Natural red heads are more prone to skin cancer and have a higher sensitivity to heat and cold-related pain.

A 2002 study found that redhead are harder to sedate than any other people requiring twenty percent more anesthesia, since inadequate doses cause people to wake during surgery and increase recall of procedures. Redheads are likely to experience more pain from a given stimulus and therefore require more anesthesia alleviate pain.

Harvard dermatologist Madhu Pathak calls redheads “three-time losers” because their red pigment is an inadequate filter of sunlight and their skin is more susceptible to sunburn, skin cancer and wrinkling with age.

There are a few rare syndromes associated with red hair. One of them is the Brittle Cornea Syndrome, which is seen very infrequently in Tunisian Jews. You need two mutant copies of the gene to be affected and includes several apparently unrelated traits such as brittle corneas, blue sclera (the whites of the eyes are bluish), and hyperextensible joints.

An Irish judge in 2001 fined a red haired man for disorderly conduct stating “I am a firm believer that hair coloring has an effect on temper and your coloring suggests you have a temper.”

Bees are thought to sting redheads more than others.

Folklore-
Belief that redheads are witches is a folk belief in Germanic culture. From 1483-1784 thousands of suspected witches were nearly always stripped and searched for “marks of the devil”. These included any “abnormality” such as freckles, moles, warts, and birthmarks. Red hair was certainly considered an abnormality. Considering the freckle factor for redheads this was a deadly. Somewhere around 45,000 women were tortured and murdered usually by burning at the stake or by drowning.

It was recorded that Witches needed the fat of a person with red hair when making poisons.

The Romans kept red haired slaves, and at a higher price.

In Denmark it is an honor to have a redheaded child.

Folklore in Liverpool states that meeting a redhead at the beginning of a journey is a terrible luck and bad omen.

In Greek Mythology, redheads turn into Vampires when they die.

Egyptians regarded the color red so unlucky they had a ceremony which burned red-headed maidens alive to wipe out the tint.

A Russian Proverb warns “There was never a saint with red hair.”

Adolph Hitler reportedly banned the marriages of two redheads as he feared their children would be “deviant offspring”.

Aristotle was known to believe that redheads were emotionally unhousebroken. (Whatever that means)

Seventy-five percent of redheads consider themselves to be sensual, the highest of all rankings.

Redheaded women are considered fearless, 71 percent reporting they feel the word “bold” describes them (24 points ahead of blondes) and 80 percent saying they are self-confident (25 points ahead of blondes).

Red Head Quotes –
A French proverb states that, “Redheaded women are either violent or false, and usually are both.”

Redheads “are deemed to be the emotional slaves of our coloring as no other group,” writes redheaded Nicola Tyrer in the Daily Telegraph; short temper and sexual fieriness are attributed to them.

“While the rest of the species is descended from apes, redheads are descended from cats” – Mark Twain

“My husband said he wanted to have a relationship with a redhead, so I dyed my hair.” – Jane Fonda

“Once in his life, every man is entitled to fall madly in love with a gorgeous redhead.” – Lucile Ball

Red Heads –always in trouble and always worth it.

Jokes-
Gentlemen prefer blondes but it takes a real man to handle a redhead

What do you call a woman who knows where her husband is every night? A redhead!

What do you call a Redhead with an attitude?
Normal

How do you get a redhead’s mood to change?
Wait 10 seconds

And my favorite
The Redhead Dating Motto – The fastest way to a man’s heart is through his ribcage.

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Although it sounds like a hair relaxing treatment, it’s not. Japanese Hair Straightening is a completely different animal. It’s sometimes known as “thermal reconditioning”, and its popularity is growing.

For those struggling with curly, frizzy and unmanageable hair, Japanese Hair Straightening can be an answer to your prayers and a revolutionary way to straight, silky strands.

Although “hair relaxers” are mainly designed for those with African American hair, the Japanese Hair Straightening can be used for all types but was created for Caucasian hair. This is because of the two dramatic differences between African American and Caucasian hair. The first difference is the hairs texture and the other is its ability to preserve moisture.

First, if you’re already using a relaxer Do Not use this process. The two treatments clash and you can have severe breakage and hair loss. On the other hand there’s no need to worry if you’ve already permed or highlighted your hair, the Japanese Hair Straightening System will work perfectly. But its best to be safe and do a simple strand test to make sure your hair will handle the chemicals.

Of course the results of Japanese Hair Straightening can vary but the difference of the hair before and after are amazing.
Also what’s great is you can color or highlight your hair but again it’s always best to be safe than sorry and do a strand test before doing any chemical treatment.

Two of the best Japanese Hair Straightening Systems out there are Liscio, and Yuko. Personally I prefer the results I seen from Yuko and they can last around 6 months before re-growth needs to be treated.

Now before you jump on the phone and make an appointment here comes the whopper. Yes, penny pinchers I’m talking to you since prices range from $500-$1500!

Now if your ready to get started its time you do a little research. This is not like getting a trim or simple single color. No, it doesn’t take a genius to reform this correctly but I have heard about salons trying to save money by diluting products and other tricks. Ask lots of questions and check out client pictures. Look at search engines for client reviews of salons and their services. Engines like Yelp, City Search and Merchant Circle.

Ok, let’s say you’ve tried the treatment and are satisfied; I’m now going to blow your mind. If money isn’t an issue and you’re the type that wants the best then its time you take beautiful hair to the next level and opt for a Japanese Straightening followed by a Keratin treatment. Yes you heard right. Combining these two treatments are a models dream. The treatments are done the same day and you’re looking at an all day event but if you’re that type then you can do no better!

To see what people are saying about Claudia click Merchant Circle

We’ve all seen TV shows that summed up a year, a decade and or even a century. I personally enjoy VH1’s. At the end of every year they cover the events, situations and people that had a dramatic effect on the last 365 days.

Yesterday, within hours the world had lost two of them. Whether you liked these individuals or not doesn’t change that fact they affected millions of other people. Some of us liked his music, videos and his talent. Some of us liked her shows, movies and especially her courage.

If you’ve watched any documentary on the 70’s or 80’s, you can be sure their images and names were seen. As a young girl in S. America, watching three gun tooting, karate-chopping beauties were hope of something better. Hope, that women were not weak, second class people but that we could be admired for our strength and intelligence and not just as male stress relievers.

It funny how much we care about people we really know nothing about. The truth is they didn’t know us, they didn’t owe us money and if we had passed away they wouldn’t be sending flowers. But still we cared. We watched their lives through glossy pages and a glass screen and somehow felt connected. We all have opinions of other people; their lifestyles, their morality, even their dietary choices but we’d put them aside long enough to be entertained.

How they lived their lives didn’t change how they affected mine. Everything we do, hear and see leaves an impression on our minds. Their behind the scene lives didn’t change the fact that three young sisters in S. America would sit in front of the TV every week anticipating the dark silhouettes and the women who were larger than life. They made us want to join the NRA and drop-kick the bad guys. At the end of every angelic episode we felt empowered, like we could single handedly remove the “Machismo” attitude that permeates the country I grew up in.

And who can’t remember where they were 1983 when he seamed to deify physics, walking backwards against the wind. We couldn’t take our eyes off him!

When walking in the mall, my husband gets a kick going to the Spencer Gift stores. We giggle at the toys, laugh at some stickers and generally look through the famous posters. I really can’t remember ever not seeing the two of them, even though for the most part their careers ended years ago. They epitomized entire generations. Him, standing on his tippy toes holding the hat and wearing one white glove and her, in the one piece bathing suit, bright friendly smile with her hand in her hair. Oh yea the hair!

They made us want to moon dance and model. And even though their gone, their images bring back memories of high school, first dates and a time when the world seamed a little more simple. No matter what you thought of them it’s hard to say they didn’t affect us.

Michael and Farrah, good bye, we will miss you.

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Although the days of pagan women dancing around giant stone male genitals or worshipers praying to Dina goddess of beauty are gone, our society isn’t far off.

We stare at models on the runways and magazines, agencies rake in millions selling curvy women and men won’t shut up about Megan Fox and her perfect bla bla blas. You can be sure the guys are praying for their chance with Megan. Our jealous human nature might want to shout “Who cares about models, millions and Megan!”

Right?

Wrong! We all care. And even though our husbands and boyfriends will say it doesn’t matter; this is while we stare down every once of wiggling male swimmers dancing the Macarena at the sound of Megan Fox’s bla bla blas. The truth is we love beauty in all its forms. We’re addicted to the runways, the magazines, the movies and the talk shows. Every one of them filled with beautiful people.

How can anyone say they don’t care? As women we’re are ready to commit hara-kiri when having a bad hair day, will call in sick saying its cramps when it’s a pimple and eat ourselves into a depression when our favorite jeans don’t fit.

I’m not saying it isn’t fair that all of us weren’t borne with tight gluts, piercing eyes, and none of the “C” word, yea cellulite. No it’s not fair but think how many chiropractors we’d need if everyone was beautiful? With the male race extinct from twisted tracheas and sperm overdose, the offset of estrogen would knock us into the dark ages.

The truth is I like so many others (everyone) love beautiful people! And if you’re thinking, “Oh yea, she’s probably gorgeous, that’s why she’s saying this.” Although I’m not bad to look at and have a body at forty-one better than most twenty-five year olds, NO, I’m not gorgeous. Even if I wasn’t in the “beauty business”, I’d still watch Miss USA, buy fashion magazines and complain about Megan Fox because although I love beautiful people that’s just too much. So next time you want to pull some women’s lib stats about how beautiful people get better jobs or something like that just admit to yourself you love beautiful people too. Except that dam Megan!

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Beautiful reds are a trend we see today. Bright, bold but tasteful. Unfortunately keeping your beautiful red bright , bold red from washing down the drain has always been difficult for a colorist. Although blue is the largest color molecule its followed by red. Its this reason that when hair is washed, the alkalinity of the your shampoo opens the cuticle, allowing the larger pigment to escape from the hair. Since blue and red color molecules are larger in size, they go first.

But now that’s all changed. I recently found a small up-and-coming Italian company that promised the world. Ok , not the World for most people out there but for a colorist, Yea, its the world!

They said that their red would not wash out and that it would be even from root to end and they were right! I tested it on myself and could not believe how good it is.

We may not solve hunger, world peace or rid ourselves of the mosquito but all technology isn’t bad.

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The evidence available today shows it’s safe to color your hair during pregnancy. The Organization of Teratology Information Services (OTIS), which provides information on potential reproductive risks, says that animal studies reassure that there are no reports of hair dye causing changes in human pregnancies; what’s more, OTIS points out that very little of the chemicals in hair dye are actually absorbed into your system.

Even if you feel insecure about the coloring process, the most cautious mommies-to-be need only wait until the second trimester, when you’re developing baby would be less vulnerable. Also, if you wanted to go the extra mile for your prodigy you might consider just highlighting, Balayage, or frosting this way the chemicals have little contact with your scalp. Remember hair color is not absorbed into your system but through your hair shaft.

No matter you’re decision, don’t be fooled by a company’s claim that they are “All natural or “Natural” hair products. To have the “Organic” claim you generally need only a percentage of organic products in the bottle. Also care should be taken when considering the use of henna products. Some henna may contain synthetic chemicals and risky metallic compounds like lead and copper. Many of the health store color products contain the same synthetic compounds as every other color company, chemicals such as p-phenylenediamine, dihydroxybenzene, and aminophenol.

Most experts believe that any danger with hair coloring is not the application of the product to the scalp but the inhalation of the strong chemical odors. With that understanding a future mommy may consider simply wearing a dust mask (the same used at nail salons)

What ever conclusion you and your doctor come to, always remember never to leave the dyes on any longer than necessary. Also for color applications either wear a mask or have it done at a professional salon with good ventilation.

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Ok, for those who read the first part of this blog I discussed how important it is to first develop skills of basic communication for dealing with people. These skills are not just for our industry but skills that make people like you and allow others to accept your input, all based on trust. This second blog will introduce you to a company I feel has excellent technical information on developing great rapport and giving a second to none color consultation.

I was very fortunate to find this great group from one of the American Board of Certified Haircolorists seminars I attended in Los Angels about three years ago. They’re called the “Fashion Academy” and they specialize in teaching a very specific color consultation. It is by far the best manual consultation system I have seen. I know there are some computer analyzing systems for color evaluation out there but to me they take away the personal touch I’m trying to build with my client. Always remember when it comes down to the absolute basic of what we do it this; we are attempting to visually please the clients eye and those who SEE them with color. So to me, if I can’t mirror what they want and what is pleasing to their eye with my trained eye I shouldn’t be in this industry.

Here is a little on the company. The Fashion Academy recognizes and bases its principles on “Munsell’s Color Theory”
Albert Munsell, a great American colorist, developed this theory in 1915. His theory came from the information from Sir Isaac Newton and this theory is considered the most logical in existence. Because the “Munsell” process is so accurate, it is accepted by the US Department of Agriculture, Encyclopedia Britannica and is a standard used by paint manufactures.

Because the eye has the most accuracy and description for color, the Munsell System is based on “Visual Order” not on pigment mixtures. Munsell saw too many inaccuracies in pigment mixtures and vagueness in color disruptions that lead to faulty color mixing and matching.

He believed that just as every solid object has length, depth and width, color has Hue, Value and Chroma (intensity) Hue is the definition of a color, Value is the quality of lightness or darkness in a color and Chroma is the strength or weakness of a color.
It’s from this understanding that everything else stems.

The course is only one day of training and runs about $450 but trust me; it takes practice to apply the information. The information gets very deep and then goes into charts that deal with the color of the eyes, skin, and hair. Then by the use of these different charts it help a client find the right color for their hair, clothes, makeup and even accessories. They are not hard fast rules but it logical shows people what works for them and what doesn’t. I don’t know about you but I don’t like telling a client that they have terrible skills when it comes to dressing themselves and their choices of makeup.

Now with this system you can give a great consultaion as an artist but do so scientifically and this will allow you to guide your clients to their own conclusion.

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There’s a woman I know, who although she doesn’t have any real trouble with her eyes, pays more and waits longer to get an appointment in order to see an ophthalmologist instead of the normal, easier to get an appointment and less expensive optometrist. When I asked her why she said he spent longer on his consultations with her and that he would really listen. I said “listened” not “hear” because if you’re looking to stand out from the rest as an artist you are going to want to really understand what that means.

“Listening”, in this industry, dose not mean you are going to be patient till your clients done blabbing so you can then tell them all the great ideas and newest looks you have to show them! If that’s your idea of listening then please get off now and find a blog on the latest techniques on highlighting or something else. The word “Listening” is the most basic concept but by far the most difficult to put into practice. “Listening” involves tuning out what you naturally want to think or say and means watching the other person as you sympathize, empathize and try to get into that persons head. It means watching the body language (eyes, tone, posture, etc.) to see if they are telling you everything. I know it sounds like you need to play detective and the truth is sometimes you do.

In the book “How To Win Friends And Influence People” author Dale Carnegie said “When you ask someone a question there’s the first thing they say and then there’s the truth.” Don’t lie to yourself and say you don’t ever do that. The fact is 99% of people today are stressed. Stressed about jobs, family, health care, world peace and saving the whales. And these are the same 99% that come to you as a colorist or stylist and they want you to make them feel better and once they feel better they want you to make them look better. To accomplish that takes more than the latest techniques or seasons colors, it takes someone who actually enjoys helping people. We as colorists and stylist in the industry have to realize that people, out of a “knee jerk reaction” will say things they don’t mean. Many people will tell you that they’re doing fine, they’ll tell you that they’re family’s fine, they’ll tell you they love the color, love the cut, that its ok you’re running late and that life is a box of chocolates. Then you’ll never see them again. And most likely the reason is they didn’t feel a connection, that you really cared. Cared enough to tactfully probe a little more when you asked how they’re doing, they said “fine” but they’re body, tone and eyes said “not good.” The mistake is that as an artist we think a great color and a few highlights will make them feel better but it won’t!

A great man told me, “Treat everyone like they’re going to have a nervous breakdown because most are.” Not all the clients you meet are going to need this kind of consultation but you can’t go wrong when you give it. What’s the worst that can happen? So far I haven’t heard a client say I cared too much.”

This is the first of two blogs. This first part is intended for the colorist and the client. The second part will cover several techniques for a great color consultation only. I will recommend three books that can help you as an artist and as a person to really get to know and understand people. The first is the bible of communication Dale Carnegie’s “How To Win Friends And Influence People”, the second is “Be Nice Or Else” by Winn Claybaugh and the third is “A Little Off The Top” by Michael Cole.

For those who want to stand out from the rest these books may change the way you think.

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Scientists now think gray hair is caused by a massive build up of hydrogen peroxide due to wear hair follicles. The peroxide blocks the synthesis of melanin, your hair’s natural pigment. All hair cells have small amounts of hydrogen peroxide, but as you age, the amount increases. You end up bleaching your hair pigment from within, and your hair turns gray and then white.

Researchers made this discovery by examining cell cultures of human hair follicles. The build up of hydrogen peroxide was caused by a reduction of an enzyme that breaks up hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen.

The hair follicles could not repair the damage caused by the hydrogen peroxide because of low levels of the enzymes MSR A and B, which serve this function. High levels of hydrogen peroxide and low levels of these enzymes disrupt the formation of tyrosinase, an enzyme that leads to the production of melanin in hair follicles.

The color of your hair is determined by the protein melanin. There are two kinds of melanin (eumelanin colors your hair brown to black) and pheomelanin (turns hair yellow-blond to red) The levels of each of these two kinds of melanin determine color and shade of your hair.

The cells in your hair follicles that create melanin are called melanocytes. When your hair turns gray, the melanocytes have stopped creating melanin.

A recent study found that the increased production and build up of hydrogen peroxide in your hair follicles as you age blocks this natural synthesis of melanin, and hence you start going gray.

Heredity also plays a part. The New York Times stated that Caucations tend to gray the earliest, followed by Asians and then Africans.

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Yes you heard me correctly. Vern Shears A, B and a C can make you more money all while making your job as an stylist doing extensions much easier. How? Let me explain. Any hairstylist or anyone who specializes strictly doing hair extensions knows that the application of the extensions is the easy part, time consuming but still the easy part. As we get more proficient we can only become faster and cleaner at our application of each extension but the application is not rocket science. But where we differ is the finishing. The perfect blending and finishing of all that time and effort put into the hours of applying each extension. Right?

Now with the Vern Shears A, B and C you can save time in thinning and blending all your hard work. What I’m talking about is the 4Ea(8 teeth), 4Eb(15 teeth) and the 4Ec(27 teeth) “L” tooth thinning scissors from Vern Shears. Unlike the shears you’re presently working with these shears are designed to leave no demarcation line or tool lines in the hair. What is even better is that these shears lock together to form one working shear! This is done by Vern Shears patented interlocking device which allows you to stack them. Here is a simple explanation. Once you’re finished applying all extensions you would them comb and flat iron all the hair straight. Now this is where you would normally take the time in blending the hair so that it looks natural but this is exactly where Vern Shears separates from the rest. You now stack them in order of ABC with the A closest to the clients head and the C farthest. Then in just a few closes of the shears your basically done.

The rest is not easy to explain in writing but really needs to be seen. All I can say is that I can perfectly blend a full and I mean full head of extensions with Vern Shears ABC combination in about ten minutes! Yea you heard that right also! I do not have to spend any real amount of time blending and trying not to leave tool lines to have a full head of extensions look perfectly natural. If you’re a stylist and reading this you can contact me for any questions but believe me, this simple combination of the Vern Shears can save you time and get more clients in your chair!

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